There are saunas, and then there are smoke saunas. Our visit to Savukka in Koli, Eastern Finland, proved just how unforgettable and deeply Finnish a true smoke sauna experience can be. Nestled on the shores of a crystal-clear lake amid Koli’s breathtaking national landscape, Savukka offers an atmospheric escape into a sauna tradition that stretches back centuries.
A Unique Smoke Sauna Experience in Koli
A quick note: finding the sauna isn’t always straightforward! The parking area is near the road, and there’s no view to the lake or the sauna from your car. Make sure you check the right address and head down towards the lake. Walk the short forest path to the water’s edge and you’ll know you’re in the right place as soon as you catch that unmistakable scent of woodsmoke in the air.
And here’s something truly special: Savukka isn’t just any smoke sauna – it’s one of the oldest surviving smoke saunas in Finland (and, quite likely, in the whole world). For nearly 200 years, these sturdy timbers have been warming bodies and souls on the lakeshore. If walls could talk, Savukka’s would be humming with stories from generations of sauna-goers.
What is a Traditional Finnish Smoke Sauna?
The traditional Finnish smoke sauna is the oldest form of sauna, and it’s a true gem of sauna culture. There’s no chimney. Instead, a large stove (the “kiuas”) is heated with wood for hours, filling the sauna room with thick, aromatic smoke. Once the sauna is hot enough (and trust us, we’re talking really hot), the smoke is carefully vented out, leaving behind clean, velvety heat and the unmistakable scent of woodsmoke.
This is sauna as it was enjoyed by Finns for centuries – before the days of electric heaters and quick “ten-minute” sauna sessions.
How to Heat a Smoke Sauna (and Why You Probably Shouldn’t Try It Yourself)
Heating a smoke sauna is a slow, almost meditative ritual – and it’s not for the impatient. First, a massive pile of firewood is stacked into the kiuas. The fire is started early, sometimes as soon as the sun rises. For hours, the sauna fills with smoke as the stones heat up. Typically, the heating process takes at least 5–6 hours, sometimes even a whole day. Patience is key!
But here’s a crucial detail: heating a smoke sauna incorrectly can actually be dangerous. If it’s not done right, carbon monoxide (yes, the deadly stuff – called “häkä” in Finnish) can build up in the air. That’s why this is not a job for beginners, and why you should never try to heat a smoke sauna yourself unless you really know what you’re doing. Thankfully, at Savukka the experts handle everything – so you can just show up and enjoy the löyly without a worry.
Once the stones are glowing hot and the temperature is just right, the fire is allowed to burn down. The smoke is then carefully ventilated out, leaving only a subtle smoky aroma and perfect heat. The result? Steamy, soft, lingering löyly (that’s what Finns call the sauna steam), and a unique atmosphere you’ll never forget.
Our Visit to Savukka: A Timeless Sauna by the Lake
Our crew included two adults, two teenagers, and a four-year-old explorer. The teens braved the heat and the cold lake water once, but the rest of us couldn’t resist the pull of the dimly-lit sauna and the refreshingly cool lake – taking turns between the soothing steam, the quiet darkness of the sauna, and the benches outside for cooling down.
There’s water available for everyone (pro sauna tip: stay hydrated, because you’ll sweat – a lot). The atmosphere was relaxed and welcoming, with a sense of history in every log and stone. The old timber walls and the enormous kiuas (stove) invite you to slow down, breathe deep, and soak in the experience.
Public sauna sessions are held on Wednesdays (check Savukka’s website for up-to-date details). At the time of our visit, entry was €20 per person – and you could stay as long as you liked. Private sessions are also available if you want the place to yourself.
How to Sauna: Practical Tips from Savukka
First time at a smoke sauna? Don’t worry, here’s everything you need to know before you go:
- Mixed sauna! Savukka is a mixed-gender sauna – everyone bathes together. That’s why everyone wears a swimsuit.
- Choose your swimsuit wisely. This is not the time for your whitest bathing suit: in a smoke sauna, every surface is covered in a fine black patina from the smoke, and there’s a good chance it’ll leave a mark on light fabrics.
- Always sit on a pefletti. This is a small sauna mat or disposable seat cover – at Savukka, your entry fee includes a single-use pefletti, so you don’t have to bring your own.
- Bring your own towel. You’ll want something to dry off with after those refreshing lake swims.
- Drink water before, during, and after. It’s easy to get dehydrated.
- The dressing room is shared. Yes, you read that right – there’s one dressing room for everyone. So before stepping inside, knock on the door and make sure no one’s there. The unwritten rule: only share the dressing room with your own group. If you know same-sex people are in the dressing room, you can ask if it’s ok to step in. If the dressing room is occupied by the opposite sex, don’t even think about it.
- No running water. Savukka is as traditional as it gets – there’s no plumbing or showers. For washing up, use the big tubs of lake water in the (hot!) sauna room. You can clean yourself there while others are enjoying the sauna, or you can take a dip in the lake.
- No soap in the lake! It’s super important to protect the pristine water – never rinse soap or shampoo in the lake. Our solution? Swim in the lake after sauna, then take a proper shower back at your cabin or cottage.
- Listen to your body. If you feel dizzy or overheated, step outside and cool off before going back in.
- Enjoy the silence. Respect others’ relaxation. There’s a time for quiet conversation, but the true magic is in the hush and the crackle of cooling stones.
- Don’t pour too much water on the stove at once. A little goes a long way with a smoke sauna!
- You can find the full list of tips and etiquette on Savukka’s website.
Why a Traditional Smoke Sauna is a One-of-a-Kind Experience
The traditional Finnish smoke sauna is, quite simply, unlike any other sauna in the world. Step inside, and you immediately know you’re somewhere extraordinary: this room was literally filled with thick smoke just hours before you arrived, part of a ritual that’s been repeated day after day, year after year, for nearly two centuries. The walls, floor, and ceiling are pitch black with soot; the air is saturated with the deep aroma of woodsmoke. If you touch the walls or benches, you’ll leave with a mark of black soot on your skin—but don’t worry, those marks wash right off, and the benches are covered with towels and your pefletti seat cover to keep you clean. For some first-timers, the intense, smoky scent can make your eyes water a bit, but it’s completely safe, and for many, that aroma becomes a beloved part of the experience.
Smoke sauna is not just about sweating. It’s about unwinding, connecting with nature, and experiencing something ancient yet timeless. For a few precious hours, all that matters is the heat of the stones, the cool splash of the lake, and the soft, smoky air.
Conclusion: Why You Should Experience Smoke Sauna
Whether you’re a sauna pro or a total newbie, the smoke sauna at Savukka in Koli is a must-try. It’s an authentic slice of Finnish culture, lovingly preserved and open to all.
So, if you ever visit Koli (and why wouldn’t you?), be ready to trade your quick electric sauna for something legendary. Trust us, you won’t regret it. Just remember to bring your swimsuit (preferably not a white one!) and your sense of adventure. We’re already planning our next visit!
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